Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
